Bright Wines, Big Acidity

Runnin’ on Riesling: Out with Cabernet, In with Kabinett

Ever listen to others discuss certain wine regions as otherworldly? Or glance through photos of vineyards that seem surreal? Me too.

Before I landed in the Mosel last Fall for work, I had seen pictures, sampled the wines, and absorbed the stories from others who had previously visited. As I attempted to process all of this information, my thoughts settled on two themes; It was steep, and it was steeper than I could imagine. 

Pictures can’t possibly do the region justice. The Mosel is without question one of the Wine Wonders of the World. Aside from average inclines of 60 Degrees, and slopes riddled with slivers of blue, grey, and red slate, these vineyards spoon the contorted Mosel river.

Why is hugging a river significant?

Have you ever dipped your foot in water on a cold day and expected to feel a similar chill only to be surprised by the waters inviting warmth? Water is an amazing heat store. Like all large bodies of water, the Mosel river moderates the surrounding air temparature. Lending heat on cool nights, the river plays a major role in getting Riesling ripe. 

                                        Bernkastel-Kues 

What about that slate?

It’s not all for show. These slate shavings, like the Mosel river, retain a lot of heat. Remove them and the Mosel wouldn’t be producing some of the finest Riesling in the world. The grape needs warmth, though not extreme heat, over a long period of time to reach full potential. These are key elements when temparatures begin to really dip as Fall rolls in. There are many other variables that work to help set the Mosel apart, though without a way to control heat, none of them would really matter.

                                A heap of slate; Any takers?

What’s on the table?

A 2008 Selbach Riesling Kabinett ($12.99). Now we are entering the world of Prädikatswein where chaptalization is not permitted. In comparing Kabinett with other still wines, it is best to remember that this style of Riesling reflects ‘full ripeness’, unlike some less than ripe (QBA), or late(r) harvest siblings (TBA). This is one of my go to Rieslings.

Great on it’s own, or as a companion during any meal of the day. This Selbach is taut, complemented with notes of oranges, minerals, and balanced acid. Throw some of these in the Kühlschrank, and you’ll find plenty of reasons to pull them right back out. 

Cheers 

Looking at the World through a Rosé filled Glass

After a long day in the vineyard in high temps and thick air, I headed for the fridge. Instinctively, I grabbed a beer, only to notice some 2009 Rosé from Spain I had stashed in the back. Tis the season. I slipped the beer back in the fridge, and grabbed a glass. No corkscrew required for this one. With a turn and a pour, I was quickly beatin’ the heat.

This 2009  Mas Donis Rosat (Catalan for Rosé) $12.99 hails from Montsant, a Catalan region lying just South West of Barcelona. You may be familiar with some of the exceptionally powerful wines from the Priorat, a county which lies within Montsant. Though the surrounding soils of Montsant may not be as legendary as those of the Priorat, they do nurture some ancient vines of their own which can produce some spectacular wines.

This Rosat is crafted using the saignée (sen-nyay) method, and is composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Merlot, and 10% Syrah. Fresh, and well structured, it tastes and smells of powerful red fruit. It shows some warmth, but it is not hot. 

What is the saignée method?

‘Saignée’ is French meaning ‘to bleed’. Regarding Rosé production which employ the saignée method, all initial phases of red wine production are implemented unchanged. Once the red grapes are occupying a tank, maceration begins to take place. As the skins of the grapes begin to separate and rise to form a cap, the juice begins to settle at the bottom. This is the juice which will be removed to make Rosé. This juice is ‘bled off’ usually within 24 hours of skin contact, likely having developed enough color and flavor. Too much soak time can make for brash Rosé. Once this juice is removed and placed in a tank or barrel, fermentation and brief aging will ensue. Most winemakers use the saignée method as a means to another end. Removing some juice helps concentrate the juice which remains in contact with the skins, which aids in enhancing power and complexity. Making Rosé with the trimmings is a good way to recycle if done correctly.

Heat is a common complaint regarding Rosé. A great deal of the pink stuff is being produced utilizing the saigneé method, and juice from grapes destined for ripe and rich red wine can end up as hot and awkward plonk. You can balance high alcohol and other ultra ripe ailments to a degree with new oak. Rosés, by nature don’t react well to much coverup. This Rosat surely didn’t need any.

Cheers

Beauty Sans Beast: A Civilized New Zealand Sauvi’

Over the last 3 decades, New Zealand has established itself as the Sauvignon Blanc capitol of the world. The Loire, Bordeaux, California, Washington St., Chile, and South Africa all produce wonderful, unique examples of this varietal, though none produce the amount of quality, well-priced Sauvignon Blanc which New Zealand can offer.

Often noted for their ripe yet fresh, pungent qualities, these wines can pack a lot of power. Recently, I have found budget N.Z. Sauvi’s to be quite monolithic. With the overwhelming amount of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc blanketing the global market, wineries attempt to set themselves apart. Power often turns more heads. A search for added power in Sauvignon Blanc means pushing the boundaries of ripeness, more stainless steel fermenting/aging, and the addition of certain commercial yeasts which are meant to accentuate specific flavors and aromas. 

Adding power to an already intense grape, many of these wines can seem like caricatures of the varietal. Some read like a flip book detailing a fresh mowed yard, followed by a cat pee rain, and culminating with a finale of grapefruit bombs shredding the soaked grass. Talk about sensory overload. Sometimes, however, I find this smack in the mouth enjoyable. Though, I am more impressed with the examples which don’t exhaust my senses, yet are still racy. 

The 2008 Momo (meaning ‘Offspring’ in Mauri) Sauvignon Blanc ($16.99) is a great example of being varietally correct (notes of grapefruit, grass, tropical fruit) yet layered with nice texture and a hit of salt. Delicious without being overly pungent. So if you are looking for a fresh, complex, and balanced Sauvignon Blanc without the steroids, Momo will make a great choice.

This wine paired great with grilled Asparagus. Since most of us are in the middle of Asparagus season, now would be the time to grab some shoots and a Sauvi’. 

Cheers 

This Bud’s for you - Bud Break 2010

* required background music - Carnival of the Animals - Aquarium 

           Bud Break (Fourth Leaf Unfolded)

I know we have all seen National Geographic videos of animals awakening after a winter’s hibernation. Polar bears digging out of their snow caves, prairie dogs emerging from their den, chipmunks rising from their holes.

 Well imagine these scenarios, but let’s consider the reawakening of the vine.  Here is a little story of what is taking place in most Northern Hemisphere vineyards right now……. First, a look at how we arrived here.

A vine bud = A point at which future growth will occur (fruit, foliage). The bud’s which are breaking now were developed most likely on last year’s vines - sometimes they are latent from 1-2 years prior. Looking at it another way, these vines which are now sprouting will soon begin developing next years buds. 

Following harvest, when the fruit’s of their labor are cut and rushed to the OR, cellar I mean (I hope), and the weather continues to cool and the days get shorter, these vines prepare themselves for a well deserved rest. They drop their leaves, force out excess water (protects them from freezing and cracking), and winterize their bark, including the bud scales (an outer protective layer). From now until spring, vines become dormant. They continue feeding on the snack supply (starch) stored in the trunks, vines, and roots to maintain basic vitality. While they are slumbering, vineyard workers will prune them back which helps in many ways. However, with regard to buds, if the vines are left unpruned (countless buds available), the possibility of generating too much fruit the subsequent harvest is of major concern since they will not all be able to ripen fully.

                            Fruit Bud

Fast forward to now, as temperatures begin to warm and stabilize, if the chosen buds made it through winter, they will begin unfolding leaf by leaf. If they froze, there is still hope, as each of these buds come in a three-pack(primary, secondary, tertiary). If one dies in the throws of winter, there is a chance for another to carry the story forward. Some of these buds will simply produce leaves, while others will produce leaves and flowers. As the leaves unfold, flower clusters (inflorescence) will begin to emerge from the fruit buds. I know, these clusters look like baby grapes, they are however inflorescence, which if successful during bloom, will lead to fruit set. Stay tuned for a look at bloom! In the meantime, let’s hope for no frost or mildew……..

  Cheers 

Goodness, Greenness, Great Bottles of Wine!

Have you ever said “wow, this wine is under-ripe”, or heard “this wine tastes green”? Usually these statements are reserved for wines that don’t quite hit the mark, and are considered faulty because they are not completely ripe. Also, if you have ever said, “this wine is fizzy, and it’s not a sparkling wine, something is off”, you are not alone.

Do two presumed faults make a right? Let’s consider context. In most still red wine, under-ripe qualities, and fizziness are considered shortcomings. With regard to subtle carbonation, many of us have made the mistake when tasting certain still wines (i.e. Riesling, Pinot Noir) to disregard the wine due to the presence of tiny little bubbles. I can assure you, this is more than likely done on purpose. 

 Why on earth would you put bubbles in my still wine? Ever taste flat soda? It is as if the life force has been sucked right out of the can, and all that is left is this drab, unrefreshing concoction. What happens in wine may not be this extreme, though the reasons to use Co2 are quite similar. Carbon Dioxide gives soda lift, and a sense of freshness. This is also the case with some still wines including certain Pinot Noir, Riesling, and to a greater degree, Vinho Verde (Green). 

 Vinho Verde is a style, not a varietal. Though we are most likely to see the white kind this side of the pond, they can be red, white, or pink. All that Verde (Green) refers to is the youthful nature of this wine. Vinho Verde is a product of the Northwestern region of Portugal, the Minho. This area of Portugal receives a lot of rainfall which means pushing the boundaries of ripeness like California, or Washington is just not possible. If they wait too long, all the fruit may rot away. 

 Last night, I was fortunate to try two very different examples of Vinho Verde with an assortment of Mexican cuisine. I found neither of them to be under-ripe, though both were on the much lighter side of ripe. A welcome change.

 First up, Aveleda Vinho Verde, N.V. ($5.49): It was 90 degrees yesterday with high humidity, weather which often screams for cold beer, and margaritas. This Vinho Verde proved it’s worth however. Refreshing, light, and beaming with crisp citrus notes. A great value.

 Later on, we popped a 2009 Soalheiro Alvarinho ($15.99): This Vinho Verde is 100% Alvarinho, and as such rings in at a slightly higher price. If I can get good Vinho Verde at $5, and it is meant to be consumed young, is there really a reason I should spend more? Like all wine, it depends on what you are after. Personally, I am much happier spending $15 on a wine like this, than $30 on a Viognier that may not live up to it’s price tag.  This wine offers all the refreshing characteristics expressed in the first bottle, though it reaches a bit further with more texture, length, and flavor (minerals, tropical fruit). This one should hold course for a couple of years. 

 Next time someone says to you “Go Green”, maybe they aren’t implying you buy a Prius, or build a compost bin, perhaps they want you to reach out and grab some Vinho Verde. 

Cheers 

Pinot for Pennies: 2009 Cono Sur Pinot Noir

budgetbacchus:

  Well, approximately 999 pennies plus tax. Still, it is rare to come across decent, inexpensive Pinot Noir. They simply don’t exist. Pinot has a need for unwavering attention and climatic harmony which often means that if it’s good, it’s price will reflect it. Unfortunately, even when Pinot is sub par, the price doesn’t tend to play in our favor due to high production cost and her celebrity status.

 Why is it expensive to produce Pinot Noir?

   For a number of reasons, though being born with thin skin and an erratic temperament forms her Achilles’ Heel. Skin not only provides flavor, tannin (wine structure & preservation), and color to wine, it also protects the grape from injury (e.g. sunburn) and disease (e.g. Pearce’s disease) during it’s life on the vine. Grape skins are covered with a cutin (cuticle), a waxy layer which offers additional protection against water loss, and disease carrying insects. Unlike varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier, Pinot Noir has delicate skin and a thin cutin. 

 

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Runnin’ on Riesling: Free German Label Decoder Inside!! (colors may vary)

budgetbacchus:

 Disclaimer: I am wildly in love with Riesling (REES-ling), and from time to time I will forget to remove my Riesling goggles when imbibing on more cosmetically enhanced varietals. I apologize for the future slander, and will do my best to see through the oak.

 S.A. Prüm - Essence - 2008 - QbA ($12.99): Oranges and flowers dominate the aromatics. Medium bodied, light acidity, yet still structured. I think pad thai is a great match for this wine. This is crafted in an off-dry* style. 

 off dry - barely a hint of sweetness.

 German Label Decoder: QbA!!

 What is QbA, and why is the ‘b’ lower case? QbA is an acronym for Qualitätswein  bestimmter Anbaugebiete (Quality wine (Q) from a certain (b) wine growing region (A), i.e. Mosel). In the German language, all nouns are capitalized, hence the lower case ‘b’. 

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Gettin’ Grenached: Avoiding a bout of Bottle Variation

First things first. Let’s get things going by discussing a true budget wine. Last night, over dinner, I opened up two bottles of 2007 Las Rocas Garnacha at $11.99 a bottle.

The first bottle exhibited middleweight texture with enough grip, a hit of acidity, and a flurry of aromatics to keep things lively. Off to a good start, I popped and poured bottle #2 and found the wine in line with the first bottle. Both bottles were purchased from a local retailer yesterday, and both carried the same lot number (below the barcode #).

Why is this important? Well sometimes it can be, and other times it’s not. For example, in all likelihood, a large winery will not have a large enough tank or the necessary space to accommodate blending 100,000 cases at one time. In order for wineries to produce this much wine of a single vintage, they are more than likely to blend and bottle in separate lots at different times. This will inevitably lead to some bottle variation. I have had this particular wine at least 12 times, and on a couple of occasions, I have found the wine heavy, flat, and lacking in aromatics (same lot # on different occasions). Couldn’t this be something else? Sure, it could be many things, including, how the wine found it’s way to the shop, cork taint, and a slew of other variables. What this lot number can offer us though is some reassurance in our purchase. If you want to grab a six pack of these bottles, or any wine with a lot number (All EU wine), think about buying one to try first. If you enjoy it, check the numbers and see if you can match them up. A small amount of effort to protect your drinking interests. - Cheers